The History of the Penny Lane Coat

Have you been searching for the perfect fall-to-winter, winter-to-spring coat? The Penny Lane coat is not only beautiful but also has a fascinatingly long history. This iconic coat was originally known as the Afghan coat because it originated in Afghanistan during the early 20^th century. This coat, usually made of sheepskin, leather, or a suede material joined by fur lining and cuffs, provided Afghans warmth from the country’s chilly weather. Despite the commonly written idea that only men wore them at the time, women often did too. These coats were omnipresent in Afghan society as national dress. But how have these unique coats become popular all over the world?  

As stated by The Conversation, from the early 1960’s, an increase of foreigners began to Afghanistan as it embarked on a new program of modernization. This modernization would lead to a significant rise of women in Afghanistan to unveil and find new forms of paid work. Among the influx of foreigners, Western “hippies” came as well. These hippies arrived in Afghanistan to pursue a free spirited, nomadic lifestyle. The widely walked path from Istanbul to Kathmandu would become known as the “Hippie Trail.” On this pilgrimage, a prominent destination was Kabul’s Chicken Street, a shopping destination for Afghan artisans to sell their goods, including Afghan coats. This would further attract Western tourists, especially hippies.  

From this, Western Hippies would adopt the Afghan coat as a staple piece. Hippies would sell these Afghan coats in their own stores, furthering their popularity. The coat would only truly take the world by storm when it was worn by one of the most influential pop culture figures, The Beatles. According to Scarlette Magazine, “Beatle John Lennon famously wore a yellow Afghan coat with red floral designs and white fur lining…Lennon’s coat was one-of-a-kind and demonstrative of the counterculture’s increasing influence” (Scarlette Magazine 1). This allowed The Beatles’ grasp on the fashion world to strengthen. Other musical artists such as Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and David Bowie would also begin incorporating Afghan coats into their style.  

Later, during the 90’s, the trend to incorporate ‘60s fashion would include Afghan coats. Further popularizing the Afghan coat would be Angelina Jolie on the set of the 1999 film “Girl, Interrupted”. A year later in 2000 the movie, “Almost Famous” would truly revitalize the Afghan coat as a statement piece. In the film, Kate Hudson plays Penny Lane, a prominent character who wears an Afghan coat during a tour with an upcoming band in 1973. Scarlette Magazine says, “The coat was so significant to this character that it has since been synonymous with her name, Penny Lane” (Scarlette Magazine 2). With the Afghan coat’s new nickname, the coat would once again become widely popular, with many adding the coat to their closet.   

Now, whether you choose to call it an Afghan coat or a Penny Lane coat, it’s undeniable that it is a fashionable way to keep warm during the colder months. 

Sources: 

The Evolution of the “Penny Lane” Coat | Scarlette Magazine 

Penny Lane Coats: Iconic Hippie Clothing - Glamour Daze 

Friday essay: how ‘Afghan’ coats left Kabul for the fashion world and became a hippie must-have 

The rock ’n’ roll inspiration behind Penny Lane’s coat in Almost Famous - Interview Magazine